Tuesday, 1 April 2014

Intensity at Ten C: Make clothes not war

THE LATEST Ten C clothing range has more to do with military precision than most others, this incredible label, which has launched its The Emperors New Clothes series described as being ‘pieces that last forever’ is using craftsmanship and quality in ‘unbranded’ garments that are uniquely yours.

From the former Stone Island man Paul Harvey and CP. Company & Esemplare genius Allesandro Pungetti, these items are not simply created they are in many ways born of frustration, a frustration that not everything is like this, but in Ten Cs eyes they should be that's if the right amount of attention, skill and beauty is put into garments and the production behind them.

And the military precision I mentioned earlier, is not just a flippant comment, or some over indulgent way of unifying the production processes to highlight the quality, with each of the magnificent jackets on offer in the ENC range it is paramount. The jackets use one fabric and only four colours, exclusively finished in Italy, really do have significant links to military clothing from the past.

With Stuarts stocking two of the range which are the Field jackets available in navy or olive and the Snow Smock jackets available in navy or the royal blue, also available are the Liner which comes in orange or olive, and the Drill jacket, which comes in tan, but these are not part of the ENC range, although they offer the same wonderful attention to detail.

Described by Ten-C as the most iconic jacket of all time, the Field is for the label based 1960s version, with a few alterations such as reducing the sleeves, while the glove flaps remain on the end of the sleeves, the designers describe the Field it as a 'pretty perfect jacket'.

Holding the American army jacket as the staple on which all others are based, the Ten-C Field first saw action in 1943, being remodelled to incude new zip fastenings, draw string was added and a rolled up hood, with Ten-C using the version worn during the Vietnam conflict of the 1960s as its building block. The garment's fabric which is OJJ and made in Japan is finished in Italy and allows the jacket to follow the body shape of the wearer, so in time each one will perfect its own particular shape, that of the owner, building a personal history/stamp to become ‘Your’ garment. A nice touch.

The zip through, two chest and two hand pockets both with flap closure comes in slim fit and is wonderful.

The Snow Smock, which again has massive military connotations, used by the Norwegians in winter camouflage, and sported by the Heroes of Telemark, (which was made into a 1965 film starring Richard Harris and Kirk Douglas) who were involved in the operation to destroy ‘hard water’ manufacturing during the Second World War, to halt the perceived construction of atomic bombs by the Germans.

The belt fastened jacket, (built into the the body of the garment) which would have come in white originally to match the snow of the countryside, is another nice aspect of this hard core winter jacket, making it one of the best of all time.
Based on a 1970s construction, with the original items being lightweight and worn over heavy winter trousers and jumpers, this version is a complete item to be warn in all winter weathers, usable as a skiing jacket even, meaning it is not lightweight.

Four breast pockets upper and hand, with a hood and inner lining, with anti-snow flap pockets, again made of the OJJ Japanese made micro-fibre, which will ensure the individuality of each garment as with the Field.

Part one Over and Out: